Added to the mystery is the addition of “snacks” which may arrive between courses and be larger than a course itself! These may comprise the main or a minor component – the diner is left guessing. The only clue to the eight or five course surprise tasting menu is a single strip of card with hand drawn images of an ingredient for each course. Beautiful presentation, on a variety of porcelain, slate and stone, is clean and precise without being too contrived.Īn element of fun is also evident. Attention to even the tiniest detail is astonishing. Precise timing, with judicious seasoning and saucing, showcase seafood, meat and game at their best, reflecting great respect for the raw material.
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Invention, moderated by a clear understanding of how to maximise natural flavours, are much in evidence. As Conor says, “It’s all about the ingredients.” Dishes involve harmonious tastes, textures, temperatures and colours, with care taken to avoid over elaboration. Highly technical and complex, it employs organic seasonal produce, including fruit and vegetables from a Victorian kitchen garden in the Borders. Although it is still evolving, Conor’s cooking, based on classical roots but using contemporary techniques, has already reached stellar levels. His current position, far removed from those large, corporate establishments, allows him greater freedom to develop his repertoire in line with Mark’s strategy of championing artisan producers and keeping the operation small. Most recently, he led the kitchens at the Michelin starred restaurant at the Isle of Eriska hotel in Oban. Conor built his reputation as Michael Wignall’s sous chef at the Latymer restaurant at Pennyhill Park in Surrey, which held two Michelin stars, and as head chef at Storrs Hall hotel in Windermere, Cumbria and Amberley Castle in Sussex. By engaging Conor Toomey, a chef with a highly distinguished pedigree, it will inevitably attract discerning foodies from further afield. Not that Condita only aims at a local clientele. Of diners – an advantage of a small restaurant – repeat custom is alreadyĮvident, including one couple visiting three times in the three months sinceĬonor Toomey and Mark Slaney (Pic: Neil Hanna) Needed neighbourhood restaurant of quality. Whilst the location in an area bereft of fine dining establishments, offers a much Understated exterior belies the eclectic décor and gastronomic delights inside, To guest ratio, giving well-focused personal service and enables the kitchen to The owner’s experience in his parents’ restaurant and as a commercial wineīuyer. Short, mainly organic and biodynamic wine list from artisan producers, also reflects The need to book in advance reinforces this.
Impracticable given the small size of the room. These limitations are seen as virtues by owner Mark Slaney The gastronomic reputation of Leith or Stockbridge. Of Edinburgh’s Old and New Town, lacks the advantage of a central location or
Its Salisbury Place address in the Newington district, south Outside, gives little indication this is a restaurant, except for a small White frontage bearing the name Condita, with blinds obscuring the view from The exterior and location are distinctly low profile: the unremarkable
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